Woman Trends Autumn-Winter 2015

Written by Kim Wallace

Search and forecast by Fabio Jesus D’Elia

 

TOTAL LOOK: Gothic – This season, black is the new black.

Alberta Ferretti

There was a folksy fairy tale feel at Ferretti, with capes adorned with fur reminiscent of the Snow Queen. Tiered skirts, high necked Victorian style ruffles and sheer lace gave a hint of dark romanticism.

Alexander Wang

Stomping boots worn with embellished leather and hair falling in tendrils. An all black colour palette was worlds away from Wang’s usual sports luxe aesthetic. This collection showed us how to do gothic with a twist of teenage angst.

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana was dripping in heritage and the importance of family values. Sophisticated gothic with an Italian spin showed us models wrapped in traditional head scarves, fur trimmed skirt suits and a bright red lip, of course.

Givenchy

Ricardo Tisci managed to combine South American Chola culture with old Victoriana to create this dark and mysterious collection. Dresses were panelled with lace and velvet and boned corsetry featured in coats and jackets. Models faces were adorned with heavy body jewellery and piercings which added to the dramatic looks.

Valentino

For Valentino, black velvet gowns featured geometric detailing while pretty lace dresses were reminiscent of classic Valentino. Details such as high necklines and cape like outerwear gave a medieval feel to the collection which featured many all black looks.

 

TOTAL LOOK: 60’s – There’s no escaping the retro vibe, designers are transporting us back to the swinging sixties.

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta showed us the perfect example of 60’s glam workwear. Wide leg trousers worn with lurex tank tops over silk pussy bow blouses. Multi coloured polka dots featured heavily on the oversized tailored looks.

Balmain

Olivier Rouesting’s collection was a colourful mixture of both sixties and eighties references. Pleated wide leg trousers were teamed with oversized graphic print jumpers in bright blue and orange hues.

Chanel

Lagerfeld transported back to a 1960’s Paris café for his Autumn Winter collection. Knitted button front dresses in cute pastel colours were designed to look like 2 piece skirt suits and were paired with jewelled costume jewellery for a kitsch retro look.

Christian Dior

Raf Simons showed cropped tweed suits in boxy shapes which echoed the decade. The tailoring was accessorised with latex ankle boots and flash mirror sunglasses which modernised the look. This Dior girl was still feminine but less floral than usual.

Giambattista Valli

There was a definite bohemian vibe at Giambattista Valli with tunic tops worn over flared trousers. Chevron prints in muted colours featured throughout and added to the relaxed and feminine aesthetic.

Lanvin

Alber Elbaz showed a sophisticated and wearable collection with subtle sixties influences. Panelled knitwear was paired with skirts, split to the thigh. Patchwork knee high boots peeked from underneath and added interesting detail.

Miu Miu

Prada’s younger sister Miu Miu showed us 60’s influences in a mash up of colours and textures. PVC A-line miniskirts were paired with swing coats in prints of hounds tooth and snakeskin. Colours were bright and clashing and created a quirky vintage shop feel.

Prada

Sickly sweet and full of retro references, Prada’s Autumn/Winter offering was a ladylike affair. From pastel pink trouser suits to teal shift dresses embellished with diamante brooches; this collection was young and full of fun details.

Salvatore Ferragamo

For Ferragamon, black and white graphic prints were interspersed with tones of mustard, tan and burnt orange to create a beautiful retro colour palette.

 

PATTERNS AND FABRICATION:  Texture – Think knits, fur, tweed and silks

Acne Studios

Thick blanket fabrics for Acne in murky tones were made to form oversized coats, tops and dresses. These were laced together and cinched by thick cords.

Alberta Ferretti

In Alberta Ferretti luxurious brocades were worn under the chunkiest of knits whilst sheer lace featured intricate applique. Add fur trims to the mix and this was a collection which focused heavily on texture.

Balenciaga

A monochrome offering with silver accents for Balenciaga. At first glance, pieces looked ladylike but on closer inspection were heavily embellished and featured leather, studs and buckles for a fierce, industrial result.

Bottega Veneta

Silk blouses were worn under lurex knitwear to create a feminity which was juxtaposed when paired with the casualness of printed denim.

Chanel

Lagerfeld combined the brands classic tweed and boucle suits with quilted fabrics, knitwear and leather details.

Dries Van Noten

Pastel velvet, molten metallics and florals – anything goes at Van Noten, all topped off with a neck corsage.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Knitwear was spliced with panels of silk and complimented by fur and leather accessories at Ferragamo.

 

PATTERNS AND FABRICATION: Brocade and Embroidered – luxurious hand finished pieces help to create inspiring collections

Alberta Ferretti

Ombre embroidery created stunning focal points in rich warm tones at Ferretti, her opulent collection felt like it was inspired by fairy tales.

Dolce & Gabbana

The rose featured heavily throughout this romantic collection, embroidered in sequins onto printed dresses and appearing as a motif over lace pieces.

Dries Van Noten

Metallic brocades were used in coats and tie front skirts to create interesting shapes and texture at Van Noten.

Givenchy

Dark brocade was used at Givenchy on manipulated tailored jackets and skirts to create a luxurious and mysterious collection.

Louis Vuitton

Leather jackets with clean lines were worn with metallic knitwear and brocade miniskirts for a relaxed, youthful look from Ghesquiere.

Valentino

Rainbow brights and sparkling embellishments were embroidered onto black shift dresses and gowns.

 

PATTERNS AND FABRICATION: Velvet – a classic fabric which can be interpreted in many forms

Givenchy

Velvet appeared in the form of midnight blue gowns with ornate detailing and corsetry at Givenchy.

Hermes

Classic pieces were made in velvet at Hermes for this luxury equestrian inspired collection.

Giorgio Armani

Electric blue velvet trousers were seen at Armani, paired with an oversized textured coat in the same hue for an 80’s colour block look.

Balmain

Black velvet was featured at Balmain in the form of ruffled miniskirts, long pleated skirts and quilting in classic Balmain style.

Lanvin

Alber Elbaz featured classic black velvet pieces accentuated by tassels, leather and rope detailing round waists.

Valentino

Black velvet gowns were decorated with cut out geometric shapes at Valentino creating an interesting mix of contemporary and classic design.

 

MUST HAVE ITEM: Long Coat

Acne Studios

Long coats featured at Acne in interesting patchwork and in oversized shapes, bound together by thick sutures.

Chloé

Floor length coats swept down the runway at Chloé in military styles and monochrome checks.

Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani showed us a mix of smart dress coats in lilac and red and black textured designs.

Christian Dior

Raf’s coats at Dior were ladylike and feminine in muted tones of brown, mustard and lilac.

Dries Van Noten

Floor length trench coats were cinched with a tie waist for a relaxed vibe for Van Noten.

Valentino

Black wool capes were fastened at the neck, draped over lace dresses and paired with leather boots.

 

MUST HAVE ITEM: Blazer

Christian Dior

Tailored double breasted blazers with subtle asymmetric pinstripes were paired with matching trousers in dusky pink and smoke grey for Dior.

Giorgio Armani

Armani showed a variety of different styles of blazer. Double breasted relaxed fit, tile printed with mandarin collar and deconstructed; all worn with removable peter pan collars.

Lanvin

Short boxy blazers with a sports luxe feel were shown at Lanvin.

Saint Laurent

Le Smoking tux jackets were worn with slashed leather trousers for a rock and roll inspired look.

 

MUST HAVE ITEM: Little Dress

Christian Dior

Swing dresses with contrast linings and embellished collars were worn with thigh high latex boots at Dior. They also featured quirky shift dresses in grey fur.

Balmain

Interesting silhouettes were seen at Balmain via metallic mini dresses with tiered ruffles worn with neon utility belts in contrasting colours.

Emilio Pucci

The 90’s were out in full force at Pucci. Velvet mini dresses featured astrological symbols in gold whilst zebra and leopard prints were metallic.

Louis Vuitton

Ghesquiere showed dresses in a mixture of leather and lace with chain belts draped around models waists. Metallic digital printed dresses with puffed shoulders gave an 80’s feel.

Saint Laurent

Ruched leather and silver lurex mini dresses were made even more risqué with thigh high splits and zip fronts. While bandage styles in lace and chiffon made for a slightly more demure look, whilst still being rock and roll.

 

COLOUR: Orange Pop

Balmain

Glittering orange tassel dresses were featured at Balmain and were contrasted nicely with tones of deep purple and navy.

Bottega Veneta

Orange knitwear with polka dot print was worn with wide leg tailored trousers in the same colour. Burnt orange was also used for lace shirt dresses which added to the 60’s theme of the collection.

Dries Van Noten

Stripes of orange were worked into oversized knitwear at Van Noten and worn with muted floral print skirts.

Emilio Pucci

Ruffles in shades of bright orange were constructed into stunning evening gowns and 70’s inspired pussy bow blouses at Pucci. A burnt orange fur coat was also a statement piece in the collection.

Fendi

Furry double breasted coats were shown at Fendi with strong 70’s influences coming through in burnt orange apron tops worn with cropped flares.

Hermes

Pops of classic Hermes orange were used in scarves to brighten up an otherwise neutral colour palette.

Miu Miu

Bright orange was used as a clashing colour at Miu Miu against garish checks, blue leopard print and yellow snakeskin.

Salvatore Ferragamo

The colour featured heavily throughout Ferragamo’s show as an accent colour against black on collars and buttons and also for full looks.

Diane Von Furstenberg

Evening gowns and mini dresses were constructed from orange lace at DVF for a fun and feminine look. The colour was also seen on princess cut coats.

 

COLOUR: Electric Blue / Purple

Diane Von Furstenberg

Diane showed tailored suits in vibrant blue and used the same colour in a polka dot print which featured on dresses and jumpsuits.

Bottega Veneta

Similarly to DVF, regimented polka dots were shown at Bottega Veneta but in deep purple.

Emilio Pucci

Electric blue ruffled gowns and blouses were shown at Pucci and paired with velvet separates.

Giorgio Armani

A full royal blue colour block look was seen at Giorgio Armani whilst textured pieces created both tailored and oversized silhouettes.

Emporio Armani

Skirts and tops were created from furry scalloped fabric at Emporio Armani for a unique look.

Balmain

Electric blue and bright purple were both seen at Balmain. Olivier Rouesting used the colours to create pleats, metallic ruffles and glittering tassels.

 

COLOUR: Tan

Acne Studios

A deep brown leather was used for oversized jackets and high waisted trousers at Acne.

Alberta Ferretti

Tan was seen at Ferretti in the form of knitwear, textured outerwear and fur collars.

Burberry Prorsum

The colour was incorporated into folk style prints at Burberry paired with moss green and cornflower blue. The suede trench and fringed cape were also key statement pieces in the collection.

Fendi

Mahogany leather pieces were seen throughout the collection at Fendi in the form of apron style tops and skirts with deconstructed panels.

 

Woman Trends Autumn-Winter 2015 – Shoes and Accessories

SHOES: Over knee boots

Versace

Over the knee suede boots in bright jewel tones of red, yellow and green stood out at Versace.

Alexander McQueen

Baby pink satin boots were paired with pleated midi skirts of the same shade for a sugary sweet look.

Christian Dior

Thigh high shiny boots were seen at Dior in a few contrasting colour combinations and also in block colours with Perspex heels.

 

SHOES: Block Heels

Miu Miu

Mini block heels came down the runway at Miu Miu in a range of colours and prints. Leopard, glitter, pastels and multi straps; this collection had it all.

Celine

Basket woven block heel shoes appeared at Celine in varying shades of brown and were spiced up by added embellishments of pearls and diamantes.

 

BAGS: Bejewelled Bags

Alberta Ferretti

Heavily embellished bags were matched to skirts and dresses at Ferretti in tones of bronze with chain handle details.

Chanel

Chanel’s classic 2.55 bag was reinvented in beautiful jewel tone metallic mosaics and cute box clutches were made entirely from chains.

Dries Van Noten

Beaded and sequinned evening bags were carried at Dried Van Noten for an opulent feel in keeping with the theme of the collection.
Woman Trends Autumn-Winter 2015