Man Autumn-Winter 2012/13 Trends
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It’s such a pleasure for us to offer a service that none of the big fashion sites do; Condé Nast must not realise the importance of Man in today’s fashion! Here we outline all your needs for a fashionable winter.
Search and forecast by Fabio Jesus D’Elia
Written by Jemma De Blanche
TOTAL LOOKS: DOUBLE BREASTED
The Dandy was king in this season’s collections and what better way to express the beau’s refinedness than with double breasted jackets?
Burberry – AW12/13
Corneliani – AW12/13
Prada – AW12/13
The result? Dapper young gangsters from the 1920s in Burberry, Wall Street wizzes from the eighties in Corneliani and decorated war veterans in Prada.
Dior Homme – AW12/13
Dolce & Gabbana – AW12/13
Salvatore Ferragamo – AW12/13
Hermes – AW12/13
The coats ranged from tuxedo jackets to suits to trench coats, all the time exuding elegance and the gentlemanly splendour of a dandy.
TOTAL LOOKS: TAILOR MADE
Menswear and tailoring go hand in hand so it seems a moot point to mention it, but this season’s impeccable tailoring was doubly important, because of the man that was emerging from the catwalks. He was a Dandy, the epitome of gentlemanly elegance, and no dandy would ever be seen with substandard tailoring
Burberry – AW12/13
Dries Van Noten – AW12/13
Yves Saint Laurent – AW12/13
Suits were made to fit like a glove, and even in stiffer fabrics like the leather details in YSL, they hung on the model like he was born with it. There was no doubt of the luxe of these collections.
TOTAL LOOKS: CHINTZ UP
The dapper gentleman doesn’t have anything if he is not subtly showing off his wealth. Designers chose to do this in adding a luxe sheen to some of the fabric, making the garments more opulent.
Salvatore Ferragamo – AW12/13 
Dries Van Noten – AW12/13
Lanvin – AW12/13
Ferragamo put a shine to a suit, and a long red trench in nylon, Lanvin made it chintzy with metallic trousers and a two tone purple shine on a suit jacket, and Dries Van Noten went a classier way just adding a very subtle blue hue to a tuxedo jacket.
MUST HAVE ITEMS: THE CAPED CRUSADER
Capes were an important staple for the autumn winter 2012 collections. The Victorian era saw a rise in the fashion conscious among both men and women and capes were worn as overcoats so as not to crush the garment underneath.
Dior Homme – AW12/13
Dolce & Gabbana – AW12/13
Emporio Armani – AW12/13
Mugler – AW12/13
From a more aesthetic point of view, a cape exudes elegance and gives the wearer a certain status. Dior took on the more casual approach showing something that might be worn in the military, while Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani and Mugler made their Dandy more chic, with elegant drapery hanging over their tailored masterpieces.
MUST HAVE ITEMS: TUXEDO
A dapper man has many important social engagement to attend, so what is he without his tuxedo? Designers saw this and did not ignore it, although there were many different takes on the typical tuxedo.
Giorgio Armani – AW12/13 
Cavalli – AW12/13
Viktor & Rolf – AW12/13
Salvatore Ferragamo – AW12/13
Jean Paul Gaultier – AW12/13
Corneliani – AW12/13
For a more casual take on it look to Giorgio Armani and pair it with a t-shirt instead of a shirt and bow tie. Cavalli paired his with heavy knits and trendy scarves while Viktor & Rolf went all out adding a chintz to theirs with a stripy satin jacket and leather gloves.
MUST HAVE ITEMS: KNITWEAR
Normally men’s knitwear is baggy and chunky thick knit, but in keeping with the gentlemanly figure designers took inspiration from this season, the knitwear was more elegant, slim line and suave.
Jean Paul Gaultier – AW12/13 
Dolce & Gabbana – AW12/13
Hermes – AW12/13
Salvatore Ferragamo – AW12/13
Corneliani – AW12/13
Gaultier took a knitted hoody and gave it the shape of a suit jacket, chunkier knits were worn over elegant white shirts and bow ties at Dolce & Gabbana, and Ferragamo championed the roll neck for a more formal look.
MUST HAVE ITEMS: LOOSE AND FLUID TROUSERS
The trouser moved away from the modish skinny jean look and towards a more fluid, baggier pant. It gave it a more old fashioned look true of the dandy style.
Giorgio Armani – AW12/13
Emporio Armani – AW12/13
Dries Van Noten – AW12/13
Dior Homme – AW12/13
Costume National – AW12/13
Giorgio Armani championed the trouser, using modern fabrics like jersey and wool with a 1920s style. Dries Van Noten and Dior gave them a tapered look which was slightly more elegant with a fluidity that conveyed pure luxury.
GRAPHICS & PRINTS
Jean Paul Gaultier – AW12/13 
Dolce & Gabbana – AW12/13
Hermes – AW12/13
ACCESSORIES & SHOES: SCARVES
Accessories were understated this season with the Dandy dominating the catwalks.
Corneliani – AW12/13
Salvatore Ferragamo – AW12/13
Louis Vuitoon – AW12/13
Scarves were oversized at Louis Vuitton and Corneliani in Aztec prints and thick fabrics. It was the opposite of a cravat style we would typically see worn by a dapper gentleman, but made the look current and appealing to the modern gentleman.
ACCESSORIES & SHOES: SHOES
Brioni – AW12/13
Emporio Armani – AW12/13
Ferragamo – AW12/13
Gucci – AW12/13
Most designers visited the classic brogue adding a more contemporary detail like a fringe or a clumpier sole like Giorgio Armani or Ferragamo.
Emporio Armani – AW12/13
Lanvin – AW12/13
Others like Lanvin championed the sci fi boot for a more futuristic take on the shoe which worked well with the tapered trouser we saw a lot of.
ACCESSORIES & SHOES: BAGS
Costume National – AW12/13
Dolce & Gabbana – AW12/13
Emporio Armani – AW12/13
Salvatore Ferragamo – AW12/13
Gucci – AW12/13
Lanvin – AW12/13
Louis Vuitton – AW12/13
Bags came in all shapes and sizes. Large totes and small briefcases, weekend bags in luxe fabrics like alligator and suede and oversized clutches gave the typical Dandy a more metrosexual look.
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