Rick Owens
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Autumn-Winter 2011/12 – In a very Maison Martin Margiela-esque way, Rick Owens presented a deconstructed silhouette. The collection took on many forms, but one thing was for certain, an iniquity underlined the clothing. At first, the clothing took an inside-out design. Fur coats that should have been lined with leather became leather coats that were lined with fur. To add to this, a knight-like theme ran throughout. Rather than chain mail the girls wore fabric but the shape was representative of the medieval times. Gloves represented gauntlets and cable knit snoods acted as further armory. For movability, pockets of fabric were cut out to reveal nude skin: fingers pocked out of gloves and elbows were visible through sleeves. Layering was key to the look, knee-length ankle boots, culottes or maxi-skirts, knitted tunics, and jackets were a typical stratification. Black then become the focus to validate the darkness of the show.
