克里斯汀•迪奥(Christian Dior)

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2011春夏系列 巴黎的罗丹美术馆(Musée Rodin)宾客云集,大家都在等待着观赏John Galliano的高级定制系列。René Gruau,这位在40和50年代为Christian Dior工作的时尚插画师,为Dior创作出了经典形象,而他绝对会为这个沉溺于时代魅力的系列感到自豪。布料和刺绣都以插画般的形式,进行着素描、涂鸦和炭笔涂抹。半身裙从胸衣式的腰部开始展开,或是从圆润的臀部开始收紧直至膝盖下方。服装撩人的特质从层叠的薄纱中呼之欲出。插图式的面料正是Galliano热衷描绘的,而这也在鸵鸟羽毛的印衬下,在礼服上创造出墨水画的效果,不过亮片饰成的铅笔线条颇费工夫。长袖连衣裙抓住了50年代的精髓,丝质泡芙袖夹克和厚重的刺绣亦是如此。一系列的色彩描绘出插画师调色板上宝石红和冰蓝色的完美配合,而一件白色皮草外套则在前面添加了些许的驼色溅泼效果。Galliano成功地达成了目标:通过面料描绘出Gruau的插画作品。

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Written by Zoe Garton

Zoe Garton was one of the first contributors to the Catwalk Yourself project. She has a fervour for fashion and graduated with a BA (Hons) in History at University College London. Zoe is responsible for our Ready-to-Wear and Haute Couture sections.


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